A chef’s bittersweet journey in Westman

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This article was published 10/10/2024 (575 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

Manitoba is world-famous for producing some of the highest-quality wheat, prized for its strength and elasticity in creating delicious pastries, croissants, doughnuts, focaccia, and French baguettes.

In the heart of Westman, where wheat fields surround a community that values both tradition and innovation, one person stands out in the realm of baking and patisserie: Chef Joanne Johnston.

As the Baking Foundations and Patisserie Arts Instructor at the Manitoba Institute of Culinary Arts (MICA), Johnston has dedicated over 30 years to shaping the next generation of culinary professionals. Her remarkable career is marked by personal and professional challenges that would have deterred many. Yet, through it all, she has not only persevered but elevated Westman’s dessert and bread scene to world-class standards.

Johnston’s passion for baking was ignited in her childhood. She fondly recalls spending time with her grandmother, whose signature mushroom-shaped cream puffs were the epitome of farm-to-table dessert. Despite having only a wood cook stove, her grandmother used fresh cream from the family’s dairy cows to create delectable treats that left a lasting impression on Johnston.

“I still remember the joy of getting an Easy-Bake Oven one Christmas and baking cakes for my father,” Johnston said, reminiscing. “I’m sure he gained 20 pounds that year, but seeing him so happy with my small creations filled me with pride and joy.”

Johnston’s grandmother had been a baker in Belgium, a fact she only later discovered, deepening her own culinary aspirations. Yet, it was her mother’s influence that proved most profound. A skilled cook and later supervisor in the kitchen at the Brandon Mental Health Centre, Johnston’s mother shared her passion for food with her young daughter. They often cooked together, and these early experiences laid the foundation for Johnston’s career.

While Johnston’s mother introduced her to the world of professional cooking, it was her brother who encouraged her to formally pursue culinary arts during high school. The decision was life-changing, and with the guidance of an inspiring teacher, Mr. Balcean, Johnston discovered her passion for baking. He pushed her to participate in culinary competitions and set her on the path to becoming a chef instructor.

After attending baking school, Johnston’s career took off. She even worked alongside her mother at the Brandon Mental Health Centre for a time, reinforcing the deep connections between family, food, and community.

Johnston’s rise in the culinary world came with its fair share of challenges. Becoming the first female culinary instructor in Manitoba was no easy feat. She began teaching under a letter of authority, which meant she was still completing her education while juggling the demands of a new teaching career. This required her to take educational courses on weekends, evenings, and summers, all while fulfilling her duties as an instructor.

“I was thrown into teaching before I was fully ready, but every day was a learning experience,” Johnston admits. “The first few years were difficult, but once I completed my studies, I was able to relax and enjoy the art of teaching.”

Her perseverance paid off, not only for her but for the many students who passed through her classroom. From local high schools to her long-standing role at MICA, Johnston has taught more than 1,500 students, instilling in them not just the technical skills of baking but also a passion for lifelong learning.

One of Johnston’s most memorable teaching experiences involved a blind student who enrolled in her culinary class.

“At first, I wasn’t sure how to help her navigate the kitchen,” Johnston said. “But after talking with her, I learned that her goal was to gain confidence in moving through a kitchen filled with potential hazards. Watching her progress and grow was inspiring — it showed me that teaching is about meeting students where they are and helping them achieve their personal goals.”

Among the many desserts Johnston has perfected over the years, her Turtle Cheesecake has become a beloved staple on the MICA menu. Yet, it’s her crème brûlée that remains her personal favourite.

“I’ve spent years perfecting this dish,” Johnston shares. “There’s something magical about achieving that creamy texture and cracking through the torched sugar. It’s simple but requires precision.”

Dessert is more than just the end of a meal for Johnston — it’s the final impression, and it must leave a lasting one. “I always tell my students that dessert should create a desire to return.”

Sustainability plays a significant role in Johnston’s teaching and cooking philosophy, a lesson passed down from her father.

“My father worked at the Brandon Mental Hospital and had a landscaping business with a deep respect for the land,” she said. “He taught me that caring for the earth isn’t just about producing food — it’s about giving back to the land.”

At MICA, Johnston incorporates these values into her curriculum by teaching students about local sourcing, reducing kitchen waste, and preserving seasonal ingredients. They often use produce from the historic community gardens and orchards attached to the grounds next to the old Brandon Mental Hospital. “We make jams, preserves, and pickles from our own garden,” Johnston says. “It’s a way to extend the shelf life of fresh ingredients while also reducing our carbon footprint.”

As Johnston looks to the future, she hopes to leave her students with more than just technical skills. “I want the next generation of pastry chefs to appreciate the artistry behind baking,” she says. “It’s not just about following recipes — it’s about experimenting, telling a story with your food.”

She also encourages a sense of community and collaboration.

“The culinary world thrives on teamwork. Building relationships with fellow chefs can lead to invaluable learning experiences.”

Johnston’s commitment to Westman and to her students has never wavered, despite the pull of glamorous pastry chef opportunities abroad.

“This region has shaped me personally and professionally,” she says. “I’ve built a community here, and I want to give back by mentoring local talent. There’s something special about seeing students succeed right here at home. Lastly, I encourage them to maintain a lifelong passion for learning; the culinary field is ever-evolving, and staying curious will allow them to adapt and excel throughout their careers”

When she’s not in the kitchen or the classroom, Johnston enjoys spending time with her family that includes four generations and indulging in hobbies like painting, gardening and fishing. These activities provide her with both relaxation and inspiration, often sparking new ideas for flavours and presentation in her cooking.

“Gardening connects me to nature,” she says. “It’s about nurturing something and then using it to create nourishing dishes for my family.”

For Chef Johnston Johnston, the journey has been bittersweet — filled with challenges, triumphs, and a passion for passing on her love of baking and culinary arts to the next generation.

» Donald Berger is a Red and Gold Seal internationally acclaimed chef and restaurateur, a former hospitality and culinary arts instructor, with an MBA in community economic development and strategic leadership.