Delicious trip down memory lane

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 16/08/2023 (796 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

NEEPAWA — Farmery Brewery, built around a family farm, is already a well-known name in the brewing industry and among beer lovers in general.

But it’s nestled in the community of Neepawa, where the hops for the beer are grown, that taste buds have another chance to rejoice in the Manitoba-made business, thanks to a food truck dishing out hot helpings of fish and chips and other chip wagon standards.

Luckily enough, as the Sun’s rural reporter, I get to call the community of Neepawa home. And even luckier, I got to head to the Farmery Estate Brewery, located at 480 MB-5, just on the outskirts of Neepawa, to sample the menu at the food truck that’s parked beside the brewery’s craft beer store.

Growing up in the northeastern Ontario town of Kirkland Lake, it seemed like there was a chip truck on every corner. There was nothing like the taste of crispy, golden French fries back then — and so I had high hopes that having lunch at the Farmery food truck would transport my taste buds back in time.

I was greeted by a young woman whose big smile and kind demeanour was as authentic as the hops grown by Farmery just outside of town. The full menu features fish and chips, just fish or just chips, chicken fingers and fries, and poutine, as well as an assortment of beverages. I decided to sample the fish and chips, the chicken fingers and — although I’m not normally a fan of root beer in general — a famous can of the Farmery soda.

I had plenty of picnic tables to choose from, covered in cheerful white-and-red checkered tablecloths and shaded by big red umbrellas. As I sat down and waited for my meal, I cracked open the root beer, bracing myself for the sweet taste of it. To my surprise, Farmery root beer isn’t like any other brand that I’ve ever tried (my husband loves root beer, so I’ve often tried sips of his drinks over the years and have never found one that I’ve enjoyed).

The root beer at Farmery is in a class of its own. Unlike other well-known brands, it’s not cloyingly sweet or artificial tasting. To my great surprise, the soda contained flavours that were subtle, and a sweetness level that allowed it to be incredibly refreshing. While it’s still not my favourite — I’d rather crack open one of Farmery’s iced tea ales or, for a non-alcoholic option, one of their premium non-alcoholic beers — that’s to do with my own personal taste. Root beer fans, and even those who are ambivalent about the soda, need to try Farmery’s malted root beer as soon as they get a chance.

My food was ready quickly, and just one look at the crispy, golden chicken fingers and perfectly cooked pickerel (what a treat for a northern girl like me!) was enough to have my mouth watering, to say nothing of the perfectly cut, golden fries, which still had the potato skin on them — the mark of a true chip wagon, in my opinion.

Growing up in northern Ontario, I couldn’t resist diving into the fried pickerel, which costs $13.95 for one piece, with chips, straight away. While I’d been given a lemon wedge to squeeze over it and some tartar sauce, to my great surprise both weren’t necessary. It was love at first bite, and as I slowly savoured the lightly breaded, deliciously crispy-on-the-outside, tender on-the-inside white fish, I was reminded of all the fish fries of my youth. Although, if I’m completely honest, it’s possible the pickerel at Farmery is even better than the fish I’d eaten before. The true test of that was the batter — neither undercooked nor overcooked, too thick, or not thick enough. Everything was just perfect.

Just for fun, I did sample the tartar sauce, and I could tell right away this was the real deal, not some store-bought stuff squirted into a little plastic container. It was so good, I dipped my fries in it.

Speaking of the fries — those long, slender batons of golden deliciousness that sell for $5.95 — Farmery simply knocked it out of the park. It’s always so disappointing when you to go to a chip wagon or food truck, order the fries and open it up only to find that they’re soggy, weighed down with too much grease — or worse yet, that they’re obviously frozen fries bought at the grocery store.

Not so with Farmery. These are possibly the best fries I’ve ever tasted, and that’s high praise coming from someone who, as I said, grew up with a chip wagon on every corner.

For me, the fries were cut to the perfect length and width. And I’m not sure how they managed it, but these were so crispy on the outside, but pillowy soft on the inside, and the seasoning? Perfection. There was just the right amount of salt and pepper — and some other secret flavour — that made my taste buds sing and kept me going back for more long after I should have stopped.

To round out the meal, the chicken fingers, which go for $13.95 and include fries, were a pleasant addition to what I’d already eaten. Dipped in classic honey dill sauce, they, like the fries and the pickerel, were a celebration of fried food done right. They were crisp and flavourful. At the same time, the meat inside was tender and oh-so-juicy.

Heading to the Farmery food truck was more than just a trip down memory lane to me. It was a lesson in how the old standards, which we can love so much it’s almost sacrilege to think they can be improved upon, can indeed be made even better when thought, care and passion is put into the equation every step of the way.

My husband was very pleased with the leftovers I brought home. We’re already planning to go to the Farmery food truck again soon to buy some of their award-winning beer while we’re there.

My only worry is how I’m going to resist stopping by for those unbelievable fries way too often for the rest of the summer.

Verdict: 5 out of 5

The Brandon Sun will be publishing a new food truck review every Wednesday and Friday all this month.

» mleybourne@brandonsun.com

» Twitter: @miraleybourne