Vine Lines — Duckhorn wines are stunningly lovely treats

Hey there, time traveller!
This article was published 01/06/2018 (2905 days ago), so information in it may no longer be current.

I don’t think the guy was trying to be a jerk. I really don’t.

I think he was totally sincere in wanting to know the reason, or reasons, why one wine cost almost three times as much as another by the same vintner.

But as is often the case, mix in a little wine — we were at the Saturday afternoon tasting session of the recent Winnipeg Wine Festival — and those who don’t realize the tone they’re using can come off as obnoxious. So I think that’s what happened here. 

Because instead of eagerly asking the pourer, “I’m curious: What factors — what qualities — make a wine worth so much more money?” this gent demanded, with a fair bit of attitude, even aggressiveness, “So what’s the difference between a $48 bottle of wine and a $130 one?”

Without missing a beat, Brian Bostwick, export sales manager of California’s Duckhorn Wine Co., looked at the guy coolly, slightly raised one eyebrow, and with just the faintest hint of a deprecating smile, said, “About 80 bucks.”

Many of us around the Duckhorn table at the time snorked, trying to muffle our amusement, while others laughed out loud. I quickly joined the latter group, mostly because Bostwick’s response was appropriate, accurate and a slam-dunk of a put-down if ever I’d heard one.

And while I’m not in the habit of approving what might be interpreted by some as a snarky response, the questioner’s tone demanded it.

I have a big thing about tone. You can say the sweetest thing, or ask an honest question, but if your tone is loud or accusatory, your message is lost in the negative subtext of the seemingly angry intonation you used to utter it. And believe me, this dude had tone. Anyway, I can’t recall what happened to the questioner, whether he stuck around the table and gamely appreciated the hilarity of the comment or slunk off, embarrassed or even miffed by Bostwick’s response and/or the unbridled mirth of those who’d been fortunate enough to hear it.

But it was certainly the line of the Wine Festival for my husband and me. And I’m sure with all the tasting events in which he participates, Bostwick has heard that very question asked that same way many a time, and had his standard response honed over years of practice at wine festivals.  We chatted with him a bit — he’s very clever and seemed a sly and intentional jokester anyway — and we certainly enjoyed the conversation. And we thoroughly enjoyed his wines!

I’d had the Decoy Sonoma County Chardonnay before — in fact, there’s a bottle on my wine rack as I type this — and had been dying to try the Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon. And both were and are truly spectacular.

A bit of history before we get into the nitty gritty — the Duckhorn Wine Co., which began as Duckhorn Vineyards, came into being in 1976 and took its name from founders Dan and Margaret Duckhorn. At that time, it was the 40th bonded winery to be established in Napa Valley, and was among the first to produce fine wine from Napa.    

The Duckhorn wines are absolutely stellar, and some might suggest for what they cost, they should be. But they truly are fabulous. I wish I’d know about the company before I spent time in both Sonoma and Napa in June of 2016, because I’d have definitely visited the winery.

The Decoy Chardonnay sells in Liquor Marts for $30.03 and is, as my friend and MBLL Product Consultant Cindy Rousseau put it, “just beautiful.” With layers of pear, apple and lemon candy, the wine is superbly smooth, elegant and perfectly balanced. It’s a real winner. The Duckhorn Napa Valley Chardonnay, made from 100 per cent Chardonnay grapes, is a wine I’ve not yet tried but am keen to. It’s described on the Liquor Marts website as “lush” with “vivid aromas of white peach, lime, melon and vanilla bean, with undertones of praline, fresh pie dough and pistachio gelato. Flavours of Bosc pear, honeycrisp apple and Meyer lemon are underscored by beautifully balanced oak, which lends warm nuances and layers of complexity that carry through to the long, silky finish.”

OK — it’s settled. I have to buy a bottle of this wine, even though it’s $45.03.

The Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon was also given high praise by Ms. Rousseau, and I couldn’t do anything but fervently agree after tasting it at the Wine Festival. With aromas of blackberry and black cherry, this is a rich, luscious, ultra-smooth and sophisticated concoction that boasts a plethora of black fruit on the palate with a hint of spice on the lengthy finish. As might be expected, it’s $50.03 a bottle. And it’s absolutely delicious.  

And then, the wine that started all the fuss noted above. The Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, which again is not listed by MBLL yet, but was $130 in the temporary on-site Liquor Mart at the show. It was such a knockout my husband and I contemplated buying the last two bottles on the shelf even at that price, but we just couldn’t justify the expense. 

If it’s listed, however, I can see indulging in the Howell Mountain Cab for a treat on some special occasions.  It’s also worthy of note that even at $130, that wine was, I was told, sold out at the on-site Liquor Mart, which may bode well for it being available to Manitobans at some point. I’ll keep my fingers crossed, anyway.  

So while these wines may be out of reach price-wise for most folks, those who decide to splurge won’t be disappointed. The Duckhorn wines are simply splendid, and would make great gifts for Father’s Day or weddings or any occasion for which generosity and indulgence are in order. 

» Diane Nelson is a longtime journalist and former Sun staffer who really likes wine. A lot.

» diane.vinelines@gmail.com 

» Twitter: @vinelinesbdn